ISSUE 06   ||   FALL / WINTER 2009



Years of the Ox

J.D. Ho

 

 

When my grandfather died in the spring of 1997, I found three freezersful of meat in our garage, individual packages labelled with descriptions such as: “1984 Alaska Moose Hunt w/ Dink.” (Dink was a guy my grandfather had met while schmoozing at one of his NRA conventions.) The freezers stank like a crime scene, and with some chunks old enough to vote, much of the meat was no good. I quintuple-bagged it all and put it in the trash, but you could smell it all the way down to Papakolea, as if the gods were angry.

 

On July 1, 1913, sixty years before I fell onto the earth, my grandfather was born. By the time I knew him, his pomaded hair had turned gray, but he always wore an expression of anticipation, his head pitched slightly forward, as if it wanted to arrive at every destination first. He had perfected his uniform, which consisted of aloha shirts from Sears, polyester slacks (usually gray or brown), and black, leather shoes from B.A. Mason. When he took his teeth out, my imagination leapt to cemeteries with silent gravediggers, or to the shadowy figures inhabiting the pages of my favorite mysteries. But with his teeth in, he was something closer to the earliest picture I have of him. In the photograph, he is perhaps twenty, tall and skinny, grinning at the camera, posed with his feet apart, bare torso rippling with muscle, arms flexed like a bodybuilder. He once claimed that when he was growing up, so many girls came to the house to see him that he had to make his brothers answer the door to turn them away. The story seemed made up, but was probably true. Much of my grandfather’s life had that quality.

 

My grandfather’s father came from Quandong Province in the 1890s, and worked in other parts of Hawai`i before settling in Pahoa, marrying, and having ten children. I never met my grandfather’s mother, but I imagine her squatting in the smoky fields with flecks of cane dust flying around her, clenching her gold-capped teeth, cursing in Chinese as the eighth little devil clawed his way out of her womb.[1]

 

Pahoa, a town on the east side of The Big Island, was a plantation village during my grandfather’s childhood. Until 1940, a heiau (Hawaiian temple) stood on its outskirts. Long before humans arrived, lichens, plants and insects colonized the lava, breaking it down until a dense forest grew, thick with ferns and `ōhi`a trees. Much of this was axed to make room for railroads, citrus trees, and sugar cane. It rains over one hundred inches per year in Pahoa.[2] If you had stood there before the speculators arrived, the clouds would have hovered puffy and white above you. The uluhe ferns would have been so dense that you could barely walk without a machete, and it would have been quiet. Steam rising slowly from the sun-heated wet earth, everything green. Insects rustling around in the undergrowth. And in the `ōhi`a trees above you, native birds having intimate conversations. 

 

1913 was a Year of the Ox. According to the Chinese zodiac, oxen are loyal, patient, and dependable. My grandfather was about as patient as a dynamite fuse. He liked to cuss. His method was postmodern, perhaps initially invented to spare the ears of delicate ladies, but easily adapted to txting. “T.S., that’s all,”[3] he’d always tell me when I wanted to go out with some boy. “I guess you’re S.O.L.,”[4] he’d say when I asked for an allowance increase. “Shee,”[5] he’d murmur while watching the Wahines get hammered by Stanford in the volleyball championships. My grandfather spoke a mild pidgin (as opposed to the near Greek spoken by a Hawaiian pig hunter I once worked with), which was understandable to most people in Honolulu. He was partially deaf later in life (from gunfire), which forced me to become a master enunciator. That combined with my inheritance of his potty-mouth has caused me to cuss as if speaking to a spelling bee judge. Mo-ther-fuck-er. Noun. A person who disagrees with you. Sentence: That motherfucker doesn’t know what he’s talking about.

 

Pidgin originated when sugar cane plantations began their takeover of Hawai`i in the 1850s, attracting Chinese coolies (the “yellow peril,” or my grandfather’s parents, depending on whom you ask) and workers from Portugal. The next wave of plantation workers came from Japan and, after that, from the Philippines. It was a regular Tower of Babel construction site out in that sea of cane. The grammar of pidgin was influenced by Hawaiian constructions. In the same way that in Spanish, one says, “I like the house red,” but in English, it’s “I like the red house,” Hawaiian prioritizes the adjective. Instead of saying, “That house is scary,” in pidgin one would say, “Scary, dat house.” Verb tenses were simplified, shedding some peculiar English constructions for the simple: “I going fix da motorcycle.” To indicate the past: “I went fix da motorcycle.” Japanese immigrants were later arrivals in the state, and pidgin was fairly developed by the time they arrived. From the Japanese language, though, pidgin picked up words of verification placed at the ends of sentences: “She get one Mercedes, yeah?” which, in standard English would be “She has a Mercedes, doesn’t she?” During the first evolutions of the language, Hawaiian was the base language, or lexifier, but later, after the 1875 Reciprocity Treaty with the U.S. was signed, the lexifier became English. Pidgin is elegant in its own way, but fading from usage. But the speech patterns, constructions, and cadences are hard to eliminate completely, even for those (like me) who barely speak pidgin at all. 

 

My grandfather’s first language was Chinese, but the kindergarten teachers at Pahoa Grammar School smacked it out of him with their rulers. My grandpa often used the old Chinese pronunciations -- flied lice (fried rice), stlongbelly (strawberry) -- along with a healthy serving of vocabulary incomprehensible to someone from outside the state. Pidgin displays a wonderful range of sounds that seem to suit the place they’re from.[6] The words my grandfather most frequently used are:

 

        bumbye: later. I going fix em bumbye.

        pake: Chinese (implies that you also mean the person is a tightwad). That pake like me pay high interest.

        etty-etty: gunk. You get some etty-etty on your face. Go get one napkin.

        tita: tomboy/tough girl. That tita pushing you around, you tell da principal.

        blala: lazy guy. Look that blala standing around on the street corner!

        mahu: effeminate man. Look the mahu wearing one skirt.

        bolohead: bald. I going get bolohead when I stay old.

        ono: yummy. Where’s that ono sushi you went buy?

        hanabata: boogers. Eh! No pick your hanabatas in public!

        shee-shee: pee. You better go shee-shee. Long drive North Shore.

·       holoholo: gallivanting. You like go holoholo with your friends, you better finish your homework.

        puka: hole. My sock get one puka in the toe.

        haole: caucasian. All those haoles look alike.

 

The whole state is an archipelago of words, with a population wandering around seemingly speaking in tongues. What a strange place it must have been, this new land poured from lava, thick with trees and ferns and vines none of the settlers had ever seen. New immigrants were arriving every day from every part of the earth. My grandfather’s parents had always lived among people of their culture, their language, and their race. But my grandfather was born in this new world. It belonged to him in a way it could never belong to his parents. He spoke pidgin with the other plantation kids, picking up the language that allowed him to communicate with anyone.

 

When I complained, my grandfather would try to get me to count my blessings by relating how he’d had to get up at four in the morning and pack a bowl of rice before going to work in the cane fields. By the time he got to school, his hands were all cut up from the stalks, and it was hard to hold the pencil. How much of the story is true, I don’t know. I do know that the workers usually assembled at 5:30 in the morning, and began work at six. The lunch break was at 10:30, a schedule the schools might have accomodated (though I can find no evidence of that). The labor was hard, and involved using a cane knife, a kind of machete, that sliced through the stalks near their bases. The cane grew taller than the workers who carried the stalks to the mule or the train. It was harvested by hand until 1955.[7]

 

Long before he was my grandfather, he was a skinny little boy lying in his bedroom with his brothers crowded around him, in bundles that barely qualified as beds, dreaming of escaping the agricultural life. As a teenager, my grandfather rode a Harley and belonged to a gang. He wore pants with legs wide enough to go around a woman’s waist. His was a family of daredevils. His brother, the locally famous volcano photographer, relished standing at precipices of fire, rapt as a moth, with his lenses aglow. 

 

After working and saving money for two years, my grandfather still didn’t have enough to go to the mainland for college, but he received his degree in Civil Engineering from the University of Hawai`i. His first job was Assistant Surveyor for the County of Hawai`i (The Big Island). Often, when we were driving around, he’d say, “I built that bridge” or “I built that road.” He literally made Hawai`i what it is today.[8]

 

My grandfather was in ROTC, and was called to join the Army (the 299th) in Februrary 1942, two months after witnessing the bombing of Pearl Harbor. He spent four years in the service, trying to make order out of chaos while my grandmother rationed food and built a shelter in the yard for herself and the first of four screaming babies. 

 

Two days after my grandfather was called to active duty, he married my grandmother. Of course, my grandmother got pregnant and had to have the baby all alone (on June 29, 1943) while my grandfather served his country, a fate she probably hadn’t considered in the whirlwind romance of having a soldier propose.

 

We were at war with the Japanese, but the Texans who came to Hawai`i to lead the troops didn’t know Chinese from Japanese from Korean. They told my grandfather he’d be shot for looking like a Jap. They didn’t want to send him out, but they needed engineers. My grandfather spent the war in Saipan, Guam, and Okinawa setting up temporary hospitals.

 

In Saipan, he befriended a local Japanese guy from Hawai`i, an interpreter. During a stop in Hong Kong, they went out, probably breaking a few marriage vows, or at least getting really drunk. They barely made it back to the ship by five p.m., their Asian curfew. The Marines showed my grandfather a bullet and said, “After dark, this is for you.”

 

My grandfather said he was lucky he made it back.

 

He never told me his Pearl Harbor story -- what he was doing that morning, and what happened in the aftermath. (Most people were used to military exercises in the islands, and thought the bombing was more of the same.) He also never told me about the days following the bombing, how everyone on Oahu had to register, like Joseph and Mary in Bethlehem, putting their names and fingerprints on record. Everyone was given immunizations and gas masks. Martial law and curfew were instituted on December 8, 1941. The FBI rounded up hundreds of Japanese residents, some of them citizens, whom they had listed as potentially dangerous.[9] In a place that was more than a third Japanese, racism could have paralyzed the city. There was certainly suspicion and fear. It must have been strange to look out on a sea of Japanese faces you knew (or even loved) and think that maybe a relative of your classmate had tried to kill you, had forced your country into war. In the end, the sheer economic impossibility of shipping 160,000 people to the mainland allowed nearly all of the Japanese people in Hawai`i to remain.

 

My grandfather missed the rationing and the air raid sirens and the disappearance of some of his Japanese friends. He missed the streets being overrun with mainland soldiers and prostitutes. He missed the first year of his first child’s life. And in his letters home, I did not yet exist. You couldn’t have cobbled me together, even with the most far-flung existing DNA.

 

After the war, my grandfather worked as a civil engineer. In New Jersey, the equivalent might be to say that he worked in cement or waste management, if you get my drift.[10] It’s impossible to unearth exactly how far my grandfather’s connections reached and what he did with them beyond what I knew. My friends called him the Corner Mafia, and there’s abundant evidence that they were right.

 

He hid it well. There were no mysterious thugs showing up at the house in the middle of the night, nor did police or FBI agents pound on the door. Of course, this is why my grandfather had his office. Despite the fact that he was retired, he went there every day. A visit revealed that the office was decorated with leather couches and paintings of naked women (beyond my limited writerly capabilities to describe, but he likely purchased them at the annual art fair held at the Neil Blaisdell Arena, a venue specializing in dramatic ocean scenes and faux pointillist attempts to get Hawai`i down on canvas), which may be an indicator of the type of person accustomed to paying a call. While emptying the place after he died, I also found a stash of porn.

 

But if you doubt the mafia connection, consider the following:

 

        Fact: At one point in time, we had four Mercedes in the driveway, one of which had the uncharacteristic license plate, “B JAMN.” My grandfather first asked me what this meant, and then bragged that he had gotten the car from a drug dealer. 

 

        Fact: Often, my grandfather would come home bearing brand new stereos or other electronics (my grandfather’s idea of brokering a television peace treaty between me and my grandmother was simply to bring me my own television), claiming that his friend Irwin had given them to him. I had a sweet turntable with a dual tape deck and radio, which I think of the way some boys think about their first car. 

 

        Fact: Bringing home a case of Dom Perignon one day, my grandfather explained that some guy at a bar had given it to him.

 

        Fact: Instead of getting the car inspected, my grandfather would dispatch me to the inspection station with cash in an envelope. I would give the envelope to a guy named Ray (who wouldn’t even ask me about the car) and return home with the inspection sticker.

 

        Fact: My grandfather made a lot of money in the 70s when his decrepit office building mysteriously burned down and he received a truckload of insurance money because the property had skyrocketed in value since the time when he had purchased it.

 

        Fact: Hawai`i politics has long been dominated by the Democrats in Tammany Hall fashion, and my grandfather was always invited to political fundraisers for candidates of both parties. Since he didn’t hold any sort of elected or appointed office, I can only imagine what this meant. He called our Senator “Brother Dan,” and didn’t hesitate to ask him for favors, such as getting me a job. 

 

One of the jobs the Senator got me was at the Nature Conservancy. I was like a CIA agent for nature. We were sent to remote outposts to wipe out the enemy—invasive species, such as guava, lantana (which I hate to this day), and passiflora. We met with informants, one of whom showed us a lobelia species with only one individual remaining in the wild. Period. Unassuming in appearance, resembling a little palm tree, Cyanea shipmanii was considered extinct until one of our contacts discovered the last plant and built a fence to protect it from a looming, rotting `ōhi`a tree. Other species had a few individuals in the wild and seedlings being propagated in greenhouses. Like some TV character with inexplicable multiplicities of abilities, I also worked in a lab propagating rare native plants in test tubes under a sterile glass hood while I wore goggles and regularly doused my arms with alcohol so I wouldn’t contaminate the plants, which grew not in soil, but in agar gel. My supervisor was a Robert Redford-esque plant lab handler, who was the only person I could trust with the plants’ lives. Sometimes he had only a piece of leaf with which to clone a hundred baby plants. With such a small sample of genetic material, the chances of mutation increase, but that is the story of most native Hawaiian plants, which arrived in the islands lonely, often in the digestive tracts of birds.

 

Hawai`i is the most isolated land mass on earth, and possesses a level of biological diversity surpassing the Galapagos. We often picture tropical flowers as enormous, but the flowers that made their way to Hawai`i had a longer journey than most, and it was often the smaller, more modest flowers that colonized the islands. Imagine floating in the ocean or blowing on a current of wind for 2,500 miles. Imagine arriving on a rock, a barren void of lava, hard and crusty and inhospitable, but with a thin layer of soil created by wind and rain. That was all there was, a long time ago. It was probably very quiet. 

 

Hawai`i was for a long time a land without predators and without mosquitoes. For the native birds, life was like several years spent in the womb, chirping away in the `ōhi`a trees, free of disease and free of giants trying to make capes out of you. This is why whenever a snake rears its ugly head in the islands, it makes the evening news the way a bomb threat would in New York City. (Snakes decimated the native birds of Guam. And I mean decimated.)

 

In the Hawai`i before it was Hawai`i, before the Polynesians arrived with their boats and their pigs and their rats and their coconuts and their sugar cane, there were far more species than we would ever suspect if we go walking in the forest today. Because there were no land mammals (that’s right, no land mammals) in Hawai`i before the Polynesians arrived, the native birds had no experience with predators except for avian ones, such as the pueo, a native owl. They were therefore both diverse and relatively defenseless. There were birds whose beaks seem like something improbable, unlikely, and downright strange. Gone is the wonderfully named King Kong finch (Chloridops regiskongi), who had a beak like a muscle car. The tortoise-jawed moa nalo (Chelychelynechen quassus) was a monster of a bird that could swallow Jonah if Jonah had come to Hawai`i instead of being thrown into the ocean. There was an ibis (Apteribis glenos), a flightless one, with a beak delicate and long. The `o`o (Moho nobilis) was a honeycreeper with a characteristic long, curved bill that could reach deep into the tubular flowers of the native lobelias. The whole thing seems prehistoric and dinosauresque, a primitive swamp, acrid with smoke from the volcanoes, steaming with ocean spray and towering with giant leaves. 

 

Hawai`i is a place where someone like my grandfather could call himself a conservationist because he tramped around in the forest and killed feral ungulates, pheasants, and quail, which were all introduced species. The house was decorated with taxidermied boar heads, deer heads,  mouflon sheep heads, and entire birds in action poses. We had more guns than dinner plates. These ran the gamut from an ancient Colt .45 to hunting rifles to sleeker handguns. I thought nothing of finding them in strange places, like behind Shakespeare’s plays, or under the bed.

 

My grandfather bred hunting dogs, Brittany Spaniels.[11] Out back, behind our patio, at the edge of a forest draping over the mountain, were eight kennels. (After my grandfather died, I discovered that the kennels were illegal, on state land, not our property.) We often had four or six dogs, and an annual litter of puppies. There was nothing like sitting in the warm whelping shed on a small wooden stool while the puppies crawled blindly over the straw. When I first came to live at the house, my grandfather had an old dog named Charlie, who became my dog. Charlie never made a sound until my grandfather took the other dogs hunting, and left Charlie behind. Then he bayed like Cerberus trapped at the edge of the underworld, all day and all night, while the other dogs loped along the slopes of Mauna Kea, their paws barely making noise in the mist and the cold.

 

I never went hunting with my grandfather, a fact I regret even now. By the time I decided I wanted him to teach me how to shoot, the doctors were trying to find the cause of the strange pain in his side. He went quickly from scaling mountains and bringing down bucks to lying in his bed talking to the dead. It’s a strange thing to sit with someone who’s dying. They’re like a bridge to the other world. Even after he died, I felt his presence in the rooms. I remembered vividly my first magical night in the house. The wind and the trees. The antique lamp in the corner. The Chinese horses on the shelves. The dogs talking amongst themselves somewhere I couldn’t see. The scent of jasmine drifting up to me.

 

The house was a behemoth, built for a family with four children and six dogs and some stray cats. It had four bedrooms, a library, a sewing room, a TV room, a dining room, a living room, a kitchen, a lanai, and an extensive garage.[12] My grandfather had built it to withstand games of tag and homework and loads of books and heirlooms from dead ancestors. He built it so the windows would never have to be closed; the weather rushed through rain or shine. It housed the junk of generations. Rooms that once held children later held antiques and boxes full of doll clothes, scarves from Japan, dishes, figurines, photographs, outdated dresses, fabric, lampshades, and other items that could be neither classified nor parted with.

 

It was like nothing I had ever seen. (My mother was a minimalist, who moved us around with only a duffel bag each, and who shed possessions like skin cells she never wanted to see again. We were always on welfare and lived in apartments until we were evicted.) I spent many rainy days looking through the boxes. A whole summer tackling the patio, which contained everything my mother had left behind.

 

Unlike my mother, my grandfather enjoyed excess. Holiday dinners were multicultural feasts with sushi and venison and olives and pickles and turkeys and Chinese jello (kanten), and my grandfather presided over the cornucopia like a king. My grandmother, the miserable cook, once a year redeemed herself by making a stew none outside the family would eat. It was too weird for my haole friends, only one of whom even accepted it politely in her bowl. It had ten kinds of mushrooms and fungus and unidentifiable ingredients. Things called “little ears,” and red dates and vermicelli noodles made of mung beans. My grandmother called it monk’s food because the monks in China used to eat it, and maybe still do.[13] She made gau, a brick-like dessert, a mixture of mochi rice and sugar, steamed within an inch of its life. These and other things filled our table along with champagne and apple cider and pots of jasmine tea. Pies and cakes and cookies and candies were crammed on the buffet beside the dining table. Always, the special tablecloth was brought out from the buffet drawers, then the special-occasion plastic sheet was laid on top. 

 

The food didn’t stop after the holidays. We visited relatives who had entire truck beds heaped with papayas, or relatives who owned macadamia nut chocolate factories, and piled our arms with candies. Boxes often arrived from my grandfather’s friend Masa, who was a farmer on Maui. He sent soybeans, jars of pickled Maui onions, pickled Japanese vegetables, and takuan (pickled Japanese radish). From fundraisers, my grandfather brought home plates of kulolo (taro pudding), haupia (coconut pudding), mochi (rice dessert), poke (squid salad), sushi, and cookies. In the yard, he grew Okinawa tangerines, regular tangerines, oranges, papayas, pohas (like a tomatillo, but sweet), herbs, lichees, pomelos, lemons, and three kinds of avocados. He made me ume musubis (rice balls with pickled plums). He took me to the Chinese bakery for things I can say but can’t spell -- doughy sesame balls filled with beans, ti-leaf-wrapped slabs of sticky rice pierced with a red-dyed stick. I have not even mentioned dim sum, char siu bau, arare, li hing mui, Portuguese sausage, kim chee, kinpira, malasadas, pork lau lau, hulihuli chicken, kalua pig cooked in an imu (a dirt pit filled with hot stones). These are all the things that at one time sat on our kitchen table. Our house was a land of plenty, like a kipuka in a field of lava, an island of life.[14] 

 

Even if humans could live without food, my grandfather would have refused. He demolished a half tin of butter cookies in a sitting (he had no real teeth to lose, having rotted them long ago), devoured whole steaks, downed two beers at every dinner. He went shopping for my friends, bringing home chips and cookies and cereal bars and ice cream and popsicles and frozen pizzas in case we were hungry. He lamented my grandmother’s abilities, and cooked most things himself. He thought the greatest invention was all-you-can-eat buffets.

 

All that food powered him. He strode through his days, and I raced to keep up. He was here and there, meeting one person or another, shaking hands, timing his six-mile walk up the mountain, schmoozing on different islands and in different towns. He mowed the lawn, trimmed the trees, trained the dogs, repaired the kennels, harvested the fruit, tinkered with the lawnmower, washed and polished the cars, and wheeled and dealed. He would rather have dug a ditch than sit around doing nothing.

 

He believed in hard work. When I brought home an A-minus, he asked why I hadn’t gotten an A. When I watched television, he asked if I’d finished my homework. He bought me a coffee maker so that I could stay up late. He shouted from the bottom of the stairs so I could get up early. He believed you could never do too much, and thought I should “butter up” my teachers with gifts, just in case. He believed in being practical and realistic. When I won $300 in a story contest, he told me that was the only money I would ever earn as a writer. He gave me three options: I could become a doctor, a lawyer, or an engineer. (I chose: None of the Above.) He held the bar way above my head and told me to jump higher when I missed. He was afraid I would end up like my mother.

 

He called her Pee-Wee. He loaded her with leis and good fortune when she left to attend California College of Arts and Crafts. It was a dismal proposition if ever my grandfather saw one, but he gave her money, and he let her go because she was his favorite. Of course, being my mother, she dropped out to smoke dope with hippies in the Haight. She took my grandfather’s money and went to Greece, to England, and to France, where somehow I snuck in, forcing her to return to the states in a hurry.

 

She didn’t come home to Honolulu until destitution forced her to. She was the prodigal daughter, the wastrel, the one who had used all the money so her little sister had none. I was too young to know what happened in that brief period when I was in diapers and liked to sun on the lanai, but she and I soon left again, returning to California. It probably surprised my grandfather not at all when my mother disappeared, leaving me in San Francisco with nothing to my name but my single duffel bag. He flew out from Hawai`i to get me, like a knight in the only warm coat he owned.[15]

 

Persephone, the daughter of Zeus and Demeter, was one day stolen by Hades from a field of flowers. Hades took her to the underworld to be his queen. In the myth, it is Demeter who searches, heartbroken, for her disappeared daughter. In my story, it was my grandfather who searched. The darkness of Hades had stolen over my mother little by little until it swallowed her whole. Just as Demeter during her search clung to the newborn child of Celeus and Metaneira and held him in the fire to burn away his mortality, so my grandfather did with me, dragging me with the force of his will out of darkness and into the world where I might function, and maybe even prosper. He didn’t roam the earth, or even visit the underworld in the manner of Orpheus (I suspect he didn’t want to admit that was where my mother had gone), but he took to visiting psychics, especially toward the end of his life when he was locked in a battle of wills with cancer.

 

The search for my mother went on in the background, out of my sight, and the lengths to which my grandfather had gone only became clear after he died. He hired detectives when the San Francisco Department of Social Services didn’t try hard enough. He mailed check after check to our old address in the Mission in hopes that one might be cashed. He had no pride. He would have done anything to bring her home.[16]

 

We went on occasion to see a Vietnamese woman named Lan Vo, who was eerily omniscient, and had a painting of Christ on the wall behind her chair. It was as if my grandfather was already stepping into the world of the spirits. Lan Vo told him that his daughter was among nuns, somewhere far away. Maybe she purposely lied to him. Maybe she thought he needed hope.

 

Lan Vo wasn’t the only one. There were two others, maybe more. My grandfather liked to complete things. He liked straight answers. But he was willing to put logic and facts aside. Those things had already failed to find my mother. 

 

I sat with my grandfather as he died. I held his hand through the night in the dark and ghostly house. If ever there was a moment when I saw God, it was then, when he was coming down to take away the person I most loved. During those hours, my grandfather’s visions began. Or maybe the spirits of his dead mother and sister had always lived outside our house among the orchids and empty terracotta pots, invisible unless death was near. 

 

In Hawai`i, we believe in ghosts. The world is full of legends and spirits. You can’t drive across Old Pali Road if there is pork in your car; you’ll anger Pele, the volcano goddess who sometimes appears as an old woman and demands kindness from strangers. Menehunes live in the forests. Offerings must be made to the gods. Sacred warnings must be heeded.[17] The gods are vengeful and mercurial, consuming whole towns in sprays of fire and rock, or tidal waves as powerful as desire. In this land of a panoply of story, it didn’t seem strange that my grandfather kept walking the house, pointing things out to me, like the ten grand in cash he had stashed in the back of the linen closet over the years. A folded and refolded sheet of paper marked the dates when he’d added each of the 100 hundred dollar bills.  

 

Our house sat on an old cinder cone called Tantalus,[18] which had an eponymous road curving the whole way up the mountain. Much of the land is forested, the road roofed with canopies of monkeypod trees and vines reaching toward the scattered sun. Groves of bamboo grow thick, gnarling the ground with their roots, their darkness rich with mosquitos. The menehunes watch from their cover of green, and from the ridge, at an old stone wall, you can look down on all of Manoa Valley and the city, spread out and growing, trying to block out the ocean. The Tantalus of Greek myth is best known for giving us the word “tantalize” because he was cursed to stand in the water, unable to drink, unable to eat the fruit hanging just out of his reach. In another incarnation of his punishment, a feast is set before Tantalus, but a rock is suspended over his head, threatening to drop so that he can never enjoy the food before him. That was my grandfather. He’d lived a life of bounty, but in the end, he wanted to see my mother, and that was the one thing he couldn’t have. She embodied his regrets and his mistakes, and he wanted to fix them.

 

Stories and tales leap from the lava and the leaves. There are places that feel unreal, like they should be heaven. Or hell. There are places barren of life, covered in lava. Places where it rains 400 inches each year. As a little girl, I slid down a snowslope at the top of Mauna Kea. As an adult, I hiked up a cold, damp mountain scattered with gorse from Scotland, uneven from the hooves and the grazing of cattle. I couldn’t see more than ten meters in front of me. I didn’t know where I was, or what time of day hung above me in the invisible sky. This is where I picture my grandfather, walking forever with the dogs, his rifle at his side. No place. No time. Telling one of his hunting buddies a story.

 

I picture him as the star of a 70s TV show. Something like The Rockford Files except in Hawai`i, and starring my grandfather instead of James Garner. My grandfather would be more well-connected with the underworld than Rockford.  He’d consort with gamblers and pimps, Yakuza and thieves, all the while fighting crime. People would hire him to find deadbeats and fugitives. Maybe he’d be a former con who’d done time at Halawa Correctional Facility. He would be on the path to redemption, using his past experience to rope in the bad guys for the cops. He would drive a 70s Plymouth. He’d stay on the right side of the law, but only by putting one foot on the wrong side. He’d talk like Jack Webb in Dragnet, if Webb had been Chinese, and had spoken pidgin.

 

Hawai`i was my grandfather’s place in every cell of his body. He was the child of immigrants, born by the cane fields of the past. Throughout his life, he watched the coming of the future. He was there when airplanes first brought tourists. He was there when interstate highways connected the towns. He was there when computers first became desk fixtures. He was there during Pearl Harbor, and when President Eisenhower signed legislation making Hawai`i the fiftieth state. He survived hurricanes and tsunamis. He watched highrises and hotels take the place of beachside stands. 

 

He was the house with its ocean views, the balcony, the lava walls, the pine floors, the fruit trees, the rusting clothesline, and the illegal dog kennels in the back. He was the roads winding up the mountains and into the valleys. He was the downtown streets where everyone knew his name. He was the cheap diners run by old Filipinos. He was the Kapi`olani Bakery and the malasada store and even the DMV. He was the airport where he taught me to drive. He was the forest where I hefted a weed wrench on my shoulders and pulled out lantana and guava to save the native trees. He was the sun blazing down on the cars. He was the beach where my friends and I went to swim. He was the school where 150 of my relatives had gone before me. He was the cemetery where he’d attended many funerals before his. 

 

Each animal of the Chinese zodiac is influenced by one of five elements, depending on the year. The elements are metal, water, wood, fire, and earth. There are twelve animals, which means that only every sixty years do oxen of the same element occur. Born sixty years apart, my grandfather and I were both water oxen, supposedly more intuitive and flexible than the other years. A few weeks later, and I could have been a tiger, but I was born at the right time. I fell into line behind my grandfather with the smell of the dirt and the weeds under my hooves and the feel of the sun on my hide, until one day I looked up from leaning my shoulder into the plow and found that he was gone. The last time I closed the dog kennel gate, it was like pulling a giant tree out of the earth by its roots with a tractor. It was like sawing in there to chop at what won’t let go. Even as my childhood mountain disappears from the map, eroded by wind and rain, fountains of fire extend their fingers and come crashing down into the ocean amid clouds of smoke and steam and the smell of burning salt. 

 

After my grandfather died, the house kept giving me gifts in his stead. The cavernous closet under the stairs yielded a pocket television with a 3-inch screen and an antenna, which my grandfather had taken to football games in order to watch replays. (I used it to watch The X-Files when I didn’t have a real television.) I found an orange hunting jacket whose label was nothing so fashionable as Cabela’s, but rather an ammunition company. His old, glass compass that opened out with a metal arm, and had a padded case of its own. His engineer’s measuring tape. An Army hat stained from wear, with a seam sewn so it fit my grandfather’s head. I took his Army portrait and his Shriner portrait, and an old Army bag with metal plating inside the canvas. I took his Captain’s jacket with its patches. I took all of these things, as much as would fit in my suitcase, for my journey down the mountain and across the sea. I never visit the old house. It’s only a memory, a kipuka in a field of lava.

 

The ancestors exist only in the things I carry, in the things my grandfather gave me. I took those things, and headed in a different direction. I use abbreviations to swear, but mine are N.F.W., F.A., and H.F.C.[19] My obsession with politics echoes my grandfather’s, except on the other side of the aisle.[20] I never took my pug hunting. I learned to shoot handguns, rifles, and shotguns, but I don’t own a firearm of any kind. Instead, everyone in my stories packs heat, consorts with crooked politicians, and likes to tell tall tales. I hear my grandfather’s voice in my head, his words and deeds coming to life on my pages. A river of curses and gibberish flows from my tongue, and a rain of bullets explodes from my pen.

 

 

 

 

Sources:

 

Allen, Gwenfread. Hawai`i’s War Years: 1941-1945. Pacific Monograph, 1950.

Barnes, Phil. A Concise History of the Hawaiian Islands. Petroglyph Press, 1999.

Sakoda, Kent and Jeff Siegel. Pidgin Grammar: An Introduction to the Creole

Language of Hawai`i. Bess Press, 2003.

“On the Brink: Hawai`i’s Vanishing Species” by Elizabeth Royte. National

Geographic, September 1995. Vol. 188, No. 3.

Sato, Hiroo. Pahoa Yesterday. Self-published, 2002.

Interview with my grandfather, Ah Leong Ho, by historian K. Scott Wong. Conducted 6/30/95.

 

 



[1] Actually, plantation workers didn’t begin burning the cane fields until 1942, but the fire makes a better picture in my mind. Recently, I also discovered that my grandfather’s parents didn’t work in the fields, but instead owned a little store.

[2] County of Hawaii, Main Page, http://www.Hawaii-county.com (last visited November 18, 2009).

[3] Tough Shit.

[4] Shit Outta Luck.

[5] Shit.

[6] My fifth grade teacher played a joke on us once, taking advantage of how Hawaiian words are  pronounced. She wrote on the board: pi. We shouted out: “Pee!” Below pi, she wrote: pe. We  shouted out: “Pay!” Below pe, she wrote: li. We shouted out: “Lee!” Below li, she wrote: ne. We shouted out, “Nay!” The board looked like this:

pi

pe

li

ne

She pointed to one line, then the next: “Pee. Pay. Lee. Nay,” we recited. She said, “What’s the matter? You don’t know how for say pipeline?”

[7] The sugar industry is responsible for the introduction of the mongoose, which was supposed to kill  the rats eating the cane. Of course, mongooses run around during the day, and the rats at night. They just waved at each other in passing, and the birds of Hawai`i were doomed forever as the mongooses ravaged their nests and predated their eggs.

[8] Hiroo Sato writes in Pahoa Yesterday: His company constructed waterlines, sewer lines, bridges, and harbors on Maui; installed the major waterline on Molokai; and installed a waterline from  Waimea to Kawaihae on the Island of Hawai`i. In addition, his company did the infrastructure work for subdivisions. (p. 127)

[9] The following people were considered dangerous: language school teachers, newspaper editors, and leaders of temples or churches.

[10] Organized crime has a hefty presence in Hawai`i, with Yakuza, Triad, and smaller ethnic syndicates.

[11] Given his long life, I estimate that he owned at least twenty dogs in his life. If you include puppies, which were usually sold at several months old, the number easily hits three digits.

[12] The garage was so large and so filled with mysterious junk that when cleaning it out, I discovered two jeeps (Scout Internationals), which had been completely obscured for years. They could not be induced to start.

[13] I never got my grandmother’s recipe, if she even had one. It seemed like she just threw things in, like a witch at her cauldron. An online recipe contained the following: kum choi (dried lily flower), chin ngee (dried fungus), fu chuk (dried bean curd), long rice, dried mushrooms, ginger root, nam you (red bean curd sauce), dau fu mui (bean cake), fatt choi (hair seaweed), bamboo shoots, jow dau fu (fried bean curd), water chestnuts, gingko nuts, funn teu (dried rice flour sticks), Chinese peas.

[14] A kipuka is a patch of forest spared during a lava flow. It’s a strange sight, an oasis on a barren, black, cindery desert.

 

[15] My foster parents were black (which didn’t occur to me at the time), and my grandfather was a racist. He used the pidgin word, popolo, in his many derogatory statements regarding African-Americans. I overheard him telling one of his friends on the phone, “She was living with coloreds!” like he’d found me with wolves or badgers. He frequently lamented “those damn Hawaiians,” or “those lazy Hawaiians.” Filipinos and Portuguese (Portagees) did not escape his unsavory observations either. His racism was a giant rift between us.

[16] In a strange corrollary to this story, in 2000, I was living in Los Angeles and my aunt (living at the old house) received a letter from a man in San Francisco who claimed to have some of my mother’s things. I contacted him and he told me that years and years ago (when I was ten), my mother had come to him and begged him to hold on to a box of stuff for her. She needed somewhere to keep it. He accepted the box, and she never returned. A friend coming down from the Bay Area brought me the box, which contained many checks from my grandfather, along with my mother’s journals from our years in the city. Despite the fact that my mother was living in a homeless shelter and had been evicted from our apartment, she never cashed the checks. In the final journal entries, which are written on flyers perhaps picked up on the street, she wrote that her teeth were falling out, that she was sick, and tired. It is impossible to say with certainty what happened after the journals were handed over to a man she barely knew. Whatever it is, I’m sure it was better my grandfather never found out.

[17] The word “kapu,” often seen around Hawai`i, means more than forbidden. It implies that a place is sacred and inviolable. It is sometimes printed on signs and placed at the edge of property instead of a “No Tresspassing” sign. I believe it is effective due to the conviction that the gods might punish you if you disobey.

[18] I have tried to discover the Hawaiian name for the mountain. A 1935 Honolulu Star-Bulletin article says that the name is Ualakaa, which means “rolling sweet potato.” A Hawai`i Public Radio web page says, no: Pu`u `ōhi`a, which I gather means “a protuberance of `ōhi`a trees,” or, a hill covered in `ōhi`a trees.

[19] No Fucking Way. Fucking Awesome. Holy Fucking Crap.

[20] At thirteen, I wrote in my journal that my grandfather wouldn’t raise my allowance because he was a Republican.